d) Slip the cylinder straight down on the stud bolts and fasten the 4 nuts equally tight to 15 ft. lbs.
e) If cylinder head was removed tighten nuts to 10 ft. lbs.
III. SHAFT SEALS:
IF the seals on the crankshaft are leaking, they have to be replaced. This is easier with the crankshaft removed, but can also be done leaving the crankshaft in place, and without taking the crankshaft apart as follows:
1. DRIVE SIDE - Remove torque converters or whatever is being used on the drive shaft1 and pull out the seal by using a correct seal puller or, if not
available, a small screwdriver or a sharp, soft metal tool such -~
as an ice pick.
Insert tool between retainer spring and shaft.
Put a few drops of oil on the shaft the new seal into its seat by using driver
of the correct diameter, one contacts only the outer diameter of
the seal.
Make sure that the lip of the seal faces inward.
CRANKCASE:
Remove all bolts and split crankcase.
Check all the bearing seats for wear and t
he crankcase for crack& will not separate, heat to 3500 - 4000 F.
Check crankshaft and bearings as described in the following paragraphs:
To reassemble crankcase - first, preheat the ignition side of the crankcase, push
the crankcase with hearings into its seat &Lake sure the bearing is pressed all the way down). then proceed with preheating the drive side 3500 - 4000 F. The preheating can be done on a steel plate which is placed on an electric plate because the crankshaft is n6t heated at the same time.
Always use new seals; they do not withstand the high temperature. Fasten all crankcase bolts equally tight.
